#28: El Merengue

If you'd asked me 3 months ago if I liked the merengue, I only would have had a vague knowledge of what you were talking about. If you'd asked me the same question 2 months ago, I would have made a face. One month ago, I would have shrugged indifferently.

But today, I'm in love. The merengue is a type of Dominican music that was born right here in the Cibao Valley, although it's popular all over Latin America. The Hispanic Caribbean (DR, Cuba, Puerto Rico) is famous for its music and dance styles (think salsa if you haven't heard of merengue). Unlike most of Latin America, the Caribbean has very little indigenous influence, thanks to the Europeans who killed them off 600 years ago. However, there exists a huge African influence due to the importation of slaves to work the sugar plantations. (Thank you to Luis Felipe Rodriguez, my Historia del Caribe professor, for imparting your wisdom.) When the slaves arrived from Africa, they brought with them a beat. As the saying goes, the rest is history. African beats and Spanish language merged and evolved to give birth to a variety of musical styles, from el merengue to la bachata to el bolero to el sol to reggaeton. Today music and dance are some of the defining elements of Caribbean culture. You're bound to hear it blasting from storefronts and car windows, and it's not unusual to see a couple do an impromptu dance or two in the middle of dinner.

Like I said, I wasn't always a fan of the merengue. It kind of got on my nerves, actually, and my friend had to convince me to even try to learn the dance. I didn't even realize how much it was growing on me until Friday. I was on another one of those indescribable adventures that one can only find in the Caribbean. We took a boat out into a park of little islands called Los Haiteses off the Samaná peninsula. I could've sworn that we were in a scene from "Jurassic Park", and when we got off the boat and into kayaks to explore the mangrove swamps, I was pretty sure an ancient dinosaur would show up any minute. After kayaking, we explored caves that had been inhabited by los Ciguayos, indigenous peoples who lived here centuries ago. Since we didn't end up getting eaten by a T-rex after all, we got back on the boat. To no one's surprise, Omega El Fuerte (a popular merengue singer) started blasting through the speakers. I was already blissfully happy; how can you not be on a gorgeous boat in the middle of the Caribbean? But I couldn't sit still. The rhythm was too alluring, for me and everyone else. When one of the sailors held out his hand to invite me to dance, I just about jumped out of my seat. 

That night, we asked around and found a great hole in the wall place to dance. And dance we did, till 3 in the morning to be exact. And being white lends itself to all kinds of piropos along the lines of "You're such a good dancer! Well, for an American." and "Don't you want to move here so we can dance together forever?" (I was enjoying myself so much at the time that I was a tiny bit tempted.) If anything has redeemed for me the craziness that is the DR, it's music and dancing. It's the long nights at the discotecas and the music streams out from every street corner that make it every bit worth it. 

Stay, girl, STAY!

The above phrase is one I've used countless times with our family pets over the years. It's been especially common with our most recent addition, Lucy, but more so back when we still fantasized that maybe one day she would listen. While it hasn't been too effective with Lucy, I'm hoping I can talk myself into it.

No, I don't generally run at top speed before leaping on top of someone. But as I only have 33 1/2 days left here, it's already getting a little difficult to be present (probably counting down doesn't help too much). Life here has settled into a rhythm. I'm haven't had any exotic adventures in a few weeks, and the exciting daily discoveries of a new culture have slowed. Plus, I have so much to look forward to at home! Anticipating time with family and friends and my last semester at Wheaton makes it easy to check out and go on a little mental vacation to the good ole US of A. Yet I don't want to spend my last month+ here mentally absent. I have to remind myself that today I live in Santiago, so I have to stay in Santiago, not only physically but mentally as well. 

Plus as it’s turned out, I’m more or less a failure at cultural adaptation. My “adapting” to the DR can be best compared to a rollercoaster. My emotions from day to day or even hour to hour are outrageously discrepant; I can’t manage to maintain being happy or sad or angry or even ambivalent. Which is humbling considering how culturally competent I used to think I was. Also, I am a big fat complainer. I complain about my food, my host family, my classes, the weather, the language, you name it. Which, if you’ve followed my blog, you already know. Although the traditional culture shock diagram has been largely irrelevant to me since I’ve never followed the typical culture shock trajectory, I’ve taken enough diversity classes to recognize the signs that one is adapting negatively to a new environment. And I won’t for a second deny that’s me. I could write a book on all the things I’ve rejected in this culture, for better or worse. What’s more, I used to consider myself more or less an optimist, but I’ve found here that a lot of time I struggle to see the good in things. 

But there comes a time when you have to make a decision (regardless of your life situation, your cultural context, or your God-given temperament) to appreciate who you are and where you are. Despite the stinging comments, the carbohydrate overload, and the occasional nights alone playing Solitaire, I know that coming here was not a mistake. A dear professor encouraged me recently to “assume there is a plotline here”. Life has a plotline, and when you can’t see the plotline, check out the scenery. Meaning, I can’t know the “point” of my being here (since becoming fluent in Spanish is not happening, although I am improving), but I can take small steps to appreciate the beauty in every day. So here’s the goal: for every day, I have to come up with something I like or appreciate about the country, the culture, or just little blessings that come along. And I'll probably post a few on the blog, so stay posted!

Today I am appreciating the fact that tomorrow I get to cross an item off my bucket list: learning to kayak! The DR really has it all -- mountains, beaches, cities, countryside, you name it -- that allow for a million incredible different experiences. Pictures to come!